Welsh cheese pudding: our traditional recipe

The legendary writer on Welsh cuisine Bobby Freeman called Welsh cheese pudding, or pwdin caws pobi Cymreig to use its Welsh title, the “final development” of cheese on toast (caws pobi).

These are big words, given toast topped with cheese has been something of a national obsession in Wales since at least the 15th century – and is still adored today in the form of Welsh rarebit (a cheese-based dish that has its own national day in September!).

Yet, it’s hard to disagree with Mrs Freeman’s assessment. Cheese pudding is a gooey bowl of loveliness that makes for an indulgent lunch or dinnertime dish. 

The recipe is similar to the traditional rural French dish panade, with both delicacies developed to make use of stale bread (though the French version tends to also include meat stock and vegetables). This makes it a great recipe for those looking to avoid food waste, or keeping a tight grasp on the purse strings. Simple and oh-so-satisfying, the dish is also very straightforward to make.

Welsh cheese pudding can be enjoyed anytime during the day, but tends to be eaten most regularly at lunchtime. It pairs nicely with cold slices of meat and/or a green salad with a mustard dressing.

The choice of bread is important when it comes to making a good Welsh cheese pudding. Ideally, you want a rustic style loaf that is a few days old.

Unsurprisingly, the cheese is important too. I’ve found the perfect cheese to be Golden Cenarth, a soft oozing cheese made by Caws Cenarth in Wales that is washed in cider before aging. But any good-quality Caerphilly or cheddar will work well. 

Though not traditional, I’ve opted to include pickled walnuts in my recipe, which I feel elevates the dish and adds a nice texture.

To this end, I’d encourage further experimentation with the dish, which is a great recipe for using up leftover cooked vegetables, or even meat. Adding some boiled cabbage between bread layers would be a great addition to this cheese pudding. Or, for a real decedent twist, why not try some pan-fried mushrooms and truffle oil? 

Serves: 4 | Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 1 hour (including 30 minutes soaking time)

Ingredients

4 thick slices of white sourdough, crusts removed

50g soft butter, to spread on the bread and the baking dish

100g Caerphilly or cheddar cheese (see ‘Notes from the chef’ section above for details)

50g additional cheese to top (Caerphilly, cheddar or parmesan), finely grated

2 pickled walnuts, thinly sliced (optional)

1 egg, plus 2 egg yolks

250ml milk

250ml double cream

½ tsp mustard powder

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

¼ nutmeg seed, freshly grated

Salt and pepper

Method

Step 1: Under a hot grill, toast the bread on one side and butter the other.

Step 2: Butter the bottom of a round baking dish and add in two slices of bread, toasted side down. Top the bread with slices of your chosen cheese and the pickled walnuts, then add on the remaining slices of bread, toasted sides up.

Step 3: In a small pan bring the milk and cream to the boil. Add the mustard powder, cayenne pepper and nutmeg, along with salt and pepper to taste.

Step 4: In a heat proof bowl, beat the egg and two yolks. Now slowly pour the hot milk and cream mixture whilst whisking together. Pour this over the bread and leave to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature to allow the bread to soak up the liquid. While the mixture is resting, preheat the oven (190C; fan 170C; gas 5).

Step 5: Top the cheese pudding with the grated cheese and bake for 30 minutes or until lightly puffed and brown on top. Serve hot.

This recipe was researched and tested by chef Alex Vines. Alex developed his signature “simple yet attentive” cooking style during a decade working in renowned London restaurants. Originally from Cardiff, Alex champions the use of seasonal and local produce, mirroring the principles of traditional Welsh recipes. Follow Alex on Instagram.